Brazilian Food Recipes

In Your Kitchen | Coffee-rubbed cowboy ribeyes

A month or so ago, just before the official start of summer, the grilling cookbooks began arriving in multiples. Some of them were intriguing, but one truly stood out from the crowd for both its subject and its style: Lourdes Castro's modestly sized soft-cover, "Latin Grilling."

A Cuban-American, Castro was born in Miami, where she ran a successful catering business and cooking school. But she also has a bachelor's degree in nutrition and food from New York University and a master's in nutritional sciences from Columbia, and is on the faculty at NYU as a professor of food science. In addition, she serves as director of the cooking school at the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables, Fla., and has somehow found the time to write three books - "Latin Grilling" is the third.

In her introduction, Castro makes the point that what is often termed "Latin food" cannot be adequately described with that simple phrase; what a Brazilian eats for dinner is obviously quite different from what's on the menu in the Yucatan. The book is divided into 10 regional chapters, each with a complete menu - from a Mexican Frontera Cookout to a Patagonian Asado. Each menu includes a drink, starter, main courses, condiments and sides, and dessert - with a helpful game plan to prepare everything as a grill-centered dinner party for eight.

• If you don't have Spanish paprika, substitute Hungarian paprika.

• You can of course make fewer steaks than 8; we made just two and needed about half of the rub. Any remaining rub can be saved for use on other cuts of meat, like skirt steak or sirloin - keep it in the refrigerator in a tightly closed container. The flip side of this is that if you make all 8 steaks, you will probably need to make more of the rub.

• If you don't have a cattle rancher's appetite, one of these huge steaks could easily serve two.

• Watch the grill carefully for flare-ups once you put the steaks on and close the lid; the combination of dripping fat and the sugar in the rub can easily cause a grill fire. If your grill is not very clean, leave the lid open - the steaks will take a little longer to cook, but you won't run the risk of over-charring them.

Some of the dishes will be familiar, like skirt steak tacos, shrimp ceviche and a grilled Cuban sandwich, but Castro adds her own twist to make them more interesting - the tacos, for example, include a radish and cucumber salad, charred tomatillo sauce and queso fresco (a mild cheese). Other recipes may take you into uncharted culinary territory: salt-encrusted beef tenderloin is one of the centerpieces of the Northern Andean menu, and in the Peruvian menu, a luscious-looking crab, potato and avocado terrine joins a trio of ceviche as a starter. I am also eager to try my hand at some of the desserts, including butter-rum cake with lime icing and Venezuelan chocolate pudding with espresso cream. All of the recipes are designed to be easy on the cook, and fortunately for us, local supermarkets stock most of the ingredients.

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